Outside power vs canister filter

Aquarium filtration systems, how do they work?

Before you enter any store asking for advice about which filter will suit your aquarium. We recommend you go armed with this basic knowledge about filtration systems. This will help you to make an informed decision and it will save you from future headaches. Let’s start by understanding what filters are designed for. A 50 gallon tank may look like a huge container of water for you and me, but it is nothing in comparison with any natural body of water where the fish originally came from. In such limited […] Read more »

Gourami Care

They should not be kept with large, aggressive fish, but would enjoy the company of other small, peaceful fish as well as fellow gouramis. Loud noises often scare them, so the tank should be in a quiet area. Traditionally silvery blue in color, their colors can change significantly with their moods, as well as during spawning, when they obtain a much deeper blue hue. Because the male can be rather aggressive during spawning, the aquarium habitat should provide ample places for the female to take refuge. Failure to do so […] Read more »

Hole in the Head Disease (HITH, LLE)

Oscars, as well as other large cichlids, are commonly afflicted by hole in the head disease (HITH). The symptoms are easily recognizable pitted areas or holes around the face and head area and along the lateral line of the fish but the cause of HITH is not so clearly understood. Some aquarists blame poor water conditions as the cause of most fish problems. This fact emphasizes the importance of a good filter system, regular water changes and aquarium maintenance. Another factor could be stress on the Oscar that weakens his […] Read more »

Loach Care

Loaches and hillstream loaches generally require a clean well-oxygenated tank, although they are not overly demanding of pH or hardness levels. Preferred conditions for most species are acidic to neutral or slightly alkaline pH and fairly soft water, although moderate hardness is tolerated after acclimatization. Regular partial water changes are required to keep nitrates low and good filtration is recommended. It is recommended to use a fine grade or rounded gravel, as loaches in particular like to sift through the substrate for food. Loaches appreciate caves, holes, and other places […] Read more »

Purpose Of Water Changes

The solution to pollution is dilution; water changes replace a portion of “dirty” water with an equal portion of clean water, effectively diluting the concentrations of undesirable substances in your aquarium. In an established aquarium, nitrate is the primary toxin that builds up. Regular water changes are the cheapest, safest and most effective way of keeping nitrate concentrations at reasonable levels. During the aquarium cycling phase, however, ammonia or nitrite may be the substances that need to be diluted and removed. Likewise, if medications have been added to your aquarium, […] Read more »

Removing Algae from Your Tank

Algae should be removed only when necessary. Don’t use scrubbing pads used for house cleaning as they may contain fungicides, which are harmful to fish. Algae needs a large amount of lighting. You should  keep your tank away from windows to avoid excessive sunlight. Use a timer to turn off your aquarium lights at night. Overfeeding your fish may add to the problem, food left uneaten will remain in the water and provide the nutrients for the algae to thrive. In addition, excess food  will affect the quality of your tank water, promoting disease among […] Read more »

Testing Your Tank’s Water

The most important thing in your fish’s environment is the water. If your fish tank has water that is too hot or cold, too acidic or alkaline, or unbalanced in any other way, your fish could die. pH is a way to measure the acidity of the tank’s water.  A pH level of 7 is neutral, below 7 is acidic and above 7 is alkaline. Most fish need the pH level to be around 6 or 7. Be aware that anything you add to the tank could change the pH […] Read more »


Tetra Care

Most species will adapt to a range of water conditions so long as the water is clean and well aerated. Extremely high pH (e.g. over 7.6, or 8 for hardy species) and very hard water should be avoided. Most tetras will fade in color if they are stressed or uncomfortable with their surroundings. (But note that many lose all their color at night, which is not a cause for alarm). They are schooling fish and will not be happy unless kept in a group of at least four of their […] Read more »

What Is the Nitrogen Cycle?

Like all living creatures, fish give off waste products (pee and poo). These nitrogenous waste products break down into ammonia (NH3), which is highly toxic to most fishes. In nature, the volume of water per fish is extremely high, and waste products become diluted to low concentrations. In aquariums, however, it can take as little as a few hours for ammonia concentrations to reach toxic levels In aquaria-speak, the “nitrogen cycle” (more precisely, the nitrification cycle) is the biological process that converts ammonia into other, relatively harmless nitrogen compounds. Fortunately, […] Read more »