Clownfish and Damselfish are the only species of fish which can avoid the stings of an anemone, which can be quite potent. The exact mechanism by which this is accomplished is the subject of debate. They make ideal companions in mixed fish and invertebrates systems. A 30 gallon or larger tank with lots of hiding places is desirable. An anemone host such as Bubbletip (Entacmaea quadricolor) or Leathery (Heteractis crispa) is preferred, but not required. Keeping an anemone alive for your clownfish will involve substantially more light than standard aquarium fixtures offer. Feed the anemone a bite of shrimp at least weekly, when the lights first come on.
If the anemone dies, or there is no anemone, the clownfish will adapt by feeding its rock. It will literally chose a rock in the aquarium as its own, and faithfully drop food on it at every feeding, and even sleep near it at night.
Clownfish in an aquarium environment can exist very well without an anemone (this may be advisable as most anemones are extremely difficult to keep alive even for experienced aquarists).
Do not move the Maroon Clownfish with a net as its cheekspines will become entangled. Use a specimen container if capture is necessary.
Maroon clownfish will eat almost anything it is fed, but the diet should include meaty food items such as chopped shrimp and herbivore preparations. A high quality marine flake food, rich in spirulina algae, as well as freeze dried and frozen foods are readily accepted.
There are no external characteristics to differentiate male and female. The fry do not have a pre-determined sex, and develop into males and females depending on the hierarchy of the school.
Compatibility: Damsels, Dartfish, Dragonets, Filefish, Foxface, Gobies, Grunts, Jawfish, Hawkfish, Parrotfish, Pseudochromis, Puffers, Squirrelsfish, Tangs, Wrasse , Live Corals, Live Rocks and Invertebrates.